22 replies to this topic

[motormania]

Bike :- Bajaj Pulsar 220 DTS-i

Year of mfg/purchase :- 2010

Odometer :- 3300kms

Hello all,
I bought a new 2010 P220 DTS-i on 9th March and have been a very satisfied customer. The bike till recently had shown no real problems and the ownership experience has been hassle-free. Its been a fill-it,shut-it,forget-it types till now.
Off late though i have been experiencing few small niggles.

1) In cold condition the bike simply refuses to start with just the self-start,even if i crank it up 10-15 times. I HAVE to use a little throttle to raise the rpm along with the self start so as to allow the auto choke to kick-in and there by bring the engine to life. However once the bike is warmed up, I do not have any starting issues throughout the day and starts at the first crank. But again if i shut off the bike for say 6-7 hours, i have to repeat the same process. I had notified this to the SA at the time of my 2nd free service and the carb was tuned and spark plugs checked,but to no use. I am afraid i might end up damaging the auto choke and the starter.

2) There is a humming sound coming from the bottom right side of the engine when i am at around 52kmph to 56 kmph. its a deep(though not very loud) humming sound and the rider can distinctly make out the sound. I brought this to the notice of the SA too and he said its an issue with the balancer loading which he will get sorted out but to no use again. I would like to know what exactly is the problem and what is the solution? Is it doing any harm to the clutch in any way?

The bike otherwise has been performing very well with good pickup and FE,have been maintaining it religiously just like my earlier P200

[v.v.shyam]

motormania said:

Off late though i have been experiencing few small niggles.

1) In cold condition the bike simply refuses to start with just the self-start,even if i crank it up 10-15 times. I HAVE to use a little throttle to raise the rpm along with the self start so as to allow the auto choke to kick-in and there by bring the engine to life. However once the bike is warmed up, I do not have any starting issues throughout the day and starts at the first crank. But again if i shut off the bike for say 6-7 hours, i have to repeat the same process. I had notified this to the SA at the time of my 2nd free service and the carb was tuned and spark plugs checked,but to no use. I am afraid i might end up damaging the auto choke and the starter.

Please get the auto choke checked up. I feel the issue exists there. This would resolve the problem.

Quote

2) There is a humming sound coming from the bottom right side of the engine when i am at around 52kmph to 56 kmph. its a deep(though not very loud) humming sound and the rider can distinctly make out the sound. I brought this to the notice of the SA too and he said its an issue with the balancer loading which he will get sorted out but to no use again. I would like to know what exactly is the problem and what is the solution? Is it doing any harm to the clutch in any way?

does the humming noise you pointed is related only to speed or is it some thing to do with engine rpm ?

[motormania]

the humming noise is only there at the above mentioned speeds and not at any lower speeds, the chain free play was adjusted too

[v.v.shyam]

motormania said:

the humming noise is only there at the above mentioned speeds and not at any lower speeds, the chain free play was adjusted too

As advised on the chat, please get the same rechecked. However noise predictions come in with a caveat, that it can't be predicted to the last detail. however pointers to issues could be pointed out.

[motormania]

v.v.shyam said:

As advised on the chat, please get the same rechecked. However noise predictions come in with a caveat, that it can't be predicted to the last detail. however pointers to issues could be pointed out.

yesterday i got the chain opened up,cleaned and refit it. the chain was adjusted and lubricated..now the problem has gone for the time being. Its been only a day and i would keep a tab on it for the next 1 week to be sure.

Thanks

PS:- fresh motul oil, clean air filter and lubricated chain makes a world of difference to the bike.

[Prady]

motormania said:

PS:- fresh motul oil, clean air filter and lubricated chain makes a world of difference to the bike.

Yes, I would second that. But in this fast running life its hard to spend time on keeping the bike, chain clean and lubricate it all the time. I prefer a closed type chain cover at this point of time.

[Silver Phantom]

Prady said:

Yes, I would second that. But in this fast running life its hard to spend time on keeping the bike, chain clean and lubricate it all the time. I prefer a closed type chain cover at this point of time.

a funny suggestion just popped in my mind. and this is only for the open chain type bikes
Why not use the drip irrigation system to oil the chain.
1- use a old oil bottle and make a hole in the cap.
2- use a cycle valve and fix it in the hole with silicon sealant or good ol' araldite.
3- fill the bottle with used but filtered (and magnetically filtered) oil to ensure clean and efficient flow.
4- close the valve completely and invert the bottle with the nozzle right above the chain. if necessary add a few strands of brush hair to the valve so the oil follows the hairs and do not fly around.
5- fix the bottle to the bike
6- When the bike is stationary, close the valve. when starting on a long ride, set drip rate to one drop per 5 mins or even slower.

this way, the open chain gets oiled regularly without hassles.
points to remember
1- make this arrangement somewhere in the engine side sprocket. reason=> wind blast should not spray and splatter the oil onto the wheels.
2- get the oil cleaned thru filter paper and stir with magnet to remove metal particles. reason=> efficient working of the contraption and u know it is only the dirt from the roads that is screwing around with ur bikes chain.

comments please. and enjoy.

[v.v.shyam]

Silver Phantom said:

a funny suggestion just popped in my mind. and this is only for the open chain type bikes
Why not use the drip irrigation system to oil the chain.
1- use a old oil bottle and make a hole in the cap.
2- use a cycle valve and fix it in the hole with silicon sealant or good ol' araldite.
3- fill the bottle with used but filtered (and magnetically filtered) oil to ensure clean and efficient flow.
4- close the valve completely and invert the bottle with the nozzle right above the chain. if necessary add a few strands of brush hair to the valve so the oil follows the hairs and do not fly around.
5- fix the bottle to the bike
6- When the bike is stationary, close the valve. when starting on a long ride, set drip rate to one drop per 5 mins or even slower.

this way, the open chain gets oiled regularly without hassles.
points to remember
1- make this arrangement somewhere in the engine side sprocket. reason=> wind blast should not spray and splatter the oil onto the wheels.
2- get the oil cleaned thru filter paper and stir with magnet to remove metal particles. reason=> efficient working of the contraption and u know it is only the dirt from the roads that is screwing around with ur bikes chain.

comments please. and enjoy.

well these were all things which enthusiasts & engineers alike tried it decades ago before coming to the current types, which have stood longer than the desired designs.

The killer for the chain have always been the dust they attract. This acts as an abrasive & damages the chain causing premature failure

[Silver Phantom]

v.v.shyam said:

well these were all things which enthusiasts & engineers alike tried it decades ago before coming to the current types, which have stood longer than the desired designs.

The killer for the chain have always been the dust they attract. This acts as an abrasive & damages the chain causing premature failure

That just sums me up.
true. the enemy of the chain is dust. which also raises the question, why oh why, dont manf's try Shaft drive. BMW has been ultra successful. so were some vintage bikes, like Indian, Zundapp etc. they dont need any shifting of the wheel to adjust the chain tension and the rear fork can act as a casing for the shaft.
well just dreaming away.

[v.v.shyam]

Silver Phantom said:

That just sums me up.
true. the enemy of the chain is dust. which also raises the question, why oh why, dont manf's try Shaft drive. BMW has been ultra successful. so were some vintage bikes, like Indian, Zundapp etc. they dont need any shifting of the wheel to adjust the chain tension and the rear fork can act as a casing for the shaft.
well just dreaming away.

There are two things

1. The Power to Weight Ratio will be skewed
2. the Cost of production of this system would be high & the prices of the motorcycles will shoot exponentially

If this is workable then mfg will offer. However we need the best at the cheapest price, which is the paradox

[motormania]

now this is ridiculous...After the chain cleaning and lubing, the humming sound went away for a day only to return today, but wait, there is a twist in the story..!!!! now it comes at around 64 kmph . i was literally scrathing my head:o. This is wierd. i will be able to visit PBK only next weekend

[Prady]

Silver Phantom said:

a funny suggestion just popped in my mind. and this is only for the open chain type bikes
Why not use the drip irrigation system to oil the chain.
1- use a old oil bottle and make a hole in the cap.
2- use a cycle valve and fix it in the hole with silicon sealant or good ol' araldite.
3- fill the bottle with used but filtered (and magnetically filtered) oil to ensure clean and efficient flow.
4- close the valve completely and invert the bottle with the nozzle right above the chain. if necessary add a few strands of brush hair to the valve so the oil follows the hairs and do not fly around.
5- fix the bottle to the bike
6- When the bike is stationary, close the valve. when starting on a long ride, set drip rate to one drop per 5 mins or even slower.

this way, the open chain gets oiled regularly without hassles.
points to remember
1- make this arrangement somewhere in the engine side sprocket. reason=> wind blast should not spray and splatter the oil onto the wheels.
2- get the oil cleaned thru filter paper and stir with magnet to remove metal particles. reason=> efficient working of the contraption and u know it is only the dirt from the roads that is screwing around with ur bikes chain.

comments please. and enjoy.

You can see the similar setup in yezdi

[motormania]

Hello Venkat sir,need some further assistance from your part

As i mentioned the humming sound is still there at around 62-65kmph..no amount of chain cleaning,adjusting or lubing helped the matter.

secondly, while starting the bike after a long period,say after few hours, the bike doesnt start with the use of the crank only.. I have to raise the throttle a little to increase the rpm along with the crank and get the auto choke to kick-in...It wont start even if i give 10 cranks untill n unless i use the throttle..

after a spirited run,the engine seems to be heating up a little more than usual. i can feel the heat when i park the bike. but not reallly very hot but yes i can feel it...not too sure.. i suspect that my AFR is running lean.

Please guide.

[v.v.shyam]

motormania said:

Hello Venkat sir,need some further assistance from your part

As i mentioned the humming sound is still there at around 62-65kmph..no amount of chain cleaning,adjusting or lubing helped the matter.

secondly, while starting the bike after a long period,say after few hours, the bike doesnt start with the use of the crank only.. I have to raise the throttle a little to increase the rpm along with the crank and get the auto choke to kick-in...It wont start even if i give 10 cranks untill n unless i use the throttle..

after a spirited run,the engine seems to be heating up a little more than usual. i can feel the heat when i park the bike. but not reallly very hot but yes i can feel it...not too sure.. i suspect that my AFR is running lean.

Please guide.

Anurag hi,

Well the noise at specific speed has to be physically verified to be resolved.

WRT to the Starting trouble, The AFR seems to be rich & might need a re look at considering the fact that a 220 DTSi sports an auto choke.

WRT to the heat, well Engines are heat generators. The quantum of heat that they generate is very subjective & is a matter. The measurement of the same outside lab conditions are mere touch & feel.

However, 220 DTSi is equipped with a temp sensor which will pop up a warning if some thing is wrong. Keep a tab on the same & see if it does pop up.

[v.v.shyam]

motormania said:

after a spirited run,the engine seems to be heating up a little more than usual.
Please guide.

As a matter of fact Engine do Run on Motorspirits .... thats when things get heated up

LOL!!

That was the lighter side to the point you raised